CERTIFIED HVAC TECHNICIANS FOR QUALITY HOME VENTILATIONHeating Replacement
Services & Repairs

Q1: Why is my furnace/heater just not turning on? Like, at all.

A: “Okay, for older gas furnaces, first thing to check is pilot light outage. If that little flame’s out, it can’t light the burner. You might be able to relight it yourself, but read the instructions carefully – and if it keeps going out, there’s likely a problem we need to look at.”

Q2: What if I don’t have a pilot light? It’s a newer furnace, but still dead.

A: “Then it’s probably igniter failure. Newer furnaces use an electric igniter instead of a pilot light. It gets red-hot to light the gas. If that burns out, no heat. Igniters do fail over time.”

Q3: Could it be something that, like, checks for the flame?

A: “Yep, could be flame sensor malfunction. That sensor’s a safety thing. It makes sure the flame lights properly and stays lit. If it gets dirty or goes bad, it might tell the furnace there’s no flame, even if there is, and shut things down for safety.”

Q4: Sometimes I smell a little… gas-y smell. Is that something with the burner?

A: “Could be dirty burner. Over time, burners get coated in soot and deposits from burning gas. That build-up can make them burn inefficiently, sometimes even smell a bit, and definitely reduces heat output. Burner cleaning is part of a good tune-up.”

Q5: Or maybe the burner is actually… blocked? Like clogged up?

A: “Yeah, clogged burner is possible. Spiders love to build webs in burner tubes, rust can flake off, all sorts of stuff can block those burner ports and mess with the gas flow. We’d need to inspect and clean those burners.”

Q6: What actually controls the gas flow into the burner? Could that be failing?

A: “That’s the gas valve. Gas valve failure means the valve that’s supposed to let gas flow to the burner isn’t working right. It could be stuck closed, or only opening partway. Gas valves can fail electronically or mechanically.”

Q7: I have an oil furnace instead of gas. Is there a valve thingy for oil too?

A: “Yep, for oil furnaces it’s oil valve malfunction. Same idea as a gas valve, but for oil instead of gas. It controls the flow of oil to the burner. If it’s not working right, the oil might not get to the burner properly, or in the right amount.”

Q8: Could the gas pressure coming into the house be too low? Would that stop my furnace?

A: “Low gas pressure from the gas company? Yeah, that can definitely cause problems. If the gas pressure is too low, your furnace just won’t get enough fuel to burn properly and make heat. We’d need to check the pressure, and if it’s low before your furnace, you might have to call the gas company.”

Q9: For oil furnaces, is low oil pressure also a possibility?

A: “Absolutely, low oil pressure is also a thing with oil furnaces. Could be an issue with the oil pump itself, a clogged oil filter, or maybe even a problem with your oil tank or lines outside.”

Q10: What if the fuel line… the pipe carrying the gas or oil… what if that’s blocked?

A: “Fuel line blockage, whether it’s gas or oil, is a no-heat situation. If that fuel line gets clogged – could be debris, a kink, frozen oil lines in really cold weather – then fuel can’t get to the burner, and you’re not getting any heat.”

Q11: I’ve heard scary things about heat exchangers… cracking? Is that a big deal?

A: “Heat exchanger crack is a major safety concern. This is where the heat from the burner transfers to the air that heats your house. If it cracks, dangerous combustion gases – especially carbon monoxide, which you can’t smell – can leak into your home. If you even suspect a cracked heat exchanger, shut off your furnace and call us immediately. This is serious.“

Q12: Can heat exchangers get rusty and corroded too?

A: “Heat exchanger corrosion is unfortunately pretty common over time. Especially with older furnaces. Rust and corrosion weaken the metal of the heat exchanger, making it less efficient at transferring heat, and – even worse – more likely to crack.”

Q13: Or actually leak? How would a heat exchanger leak? Like water?

A: “When we say heat exchanger leak, we’re usually talking about combustion gases leaking, not water. But yes, any leak in the heat exchanger is a problem, safety-wise. It could be combustion gases leaking into your air ducts, or even air leaking in, messing with efficiency. Any leak, we gotta check it out.”

Q14: The blower motor… that’s just for AC, right? Not for heat?

A: “Nope, the blower motor is just as important for heating as cooling! That blower fan is what pushes the heated air through your ducts and into your rooms. If the blower motor fails, your furnace might be making heat, but it’s just sitting there, not getting to you.”

Q15: Could a capacitor thingy also cause problems for the blower motor in the winter, for heating?

A: “Yep, blower motor capacitor failure is just as common for heating. Capacitors help start the blower motor. In the cold of winter, you might be trying to fire up the furnace and the blower motor just… hums or doesn’t start, that capacitor could be the culprit.”

Q16: What if the blower fan itself is just… dusty? Even in the heating season?

A: “Blower fan dirty is a year-round problem. Dust buildup on the blower fan blades… even in heating season, it still reduces airflow. Less airflow means less heat circulating, and your furnace has to work harder to try and keep up.”

Q17: What about the vents… the pipes going outside? Could those get blocked with snow or something and mess up my heat?

A: “Vent blockage is a major safety concern for heating. Those vents are how combustion gases get safely out of your house. If they get blocked – snow, ice, leaves, anything – those dangerous gases can back up into your house. Always make sure your furnace vents are clear, especially in winter!“

Q18: Vent backdraft… what does that mean? Sounds scary.

A: “Vent backdraft is scary, and it’s serious. It means those combustion gases are being pulled backwards into your house, instead of going up and out the vent where they belong. This is a venting problem, could be caused by a blockage or other issues, and it needs to be fixed ASAP. It’s a carbon monoxide risk.”

Q19: And those vent pipes… they can get rusty too, right?

A: “Vent corrosion is definitely something we see. Rust, especially from moisture condensing inside the vents, can weaken those pipes over time. Eventually, corroded vents can leak or even collapse, which messes up the venting and can be dangerous.”

Q20: Thermostat, again? Could my thermostat be messing up my heat too?

A: “Thermostat malfunction – yeah, it controls both heating and cooling. If your thermostat’s not working right, it’s not going to tell your furnace to turn on when it should, or it might be turning it on and off all wonky. A bad thermostat can cause all sorts of heating problems.”

Q21: What if the thermostat is just… set wrong? But not actually broken?

A: “Thermostat miscalibration is a more subtle issue. If the thermostat is reading the temperature wrong – even by just a few degrees – it can make your heating feel off. It might think it’s warmer than it is, and not kick on the heat when you’re actually chilly.”

Q22: Limit switch failure… what’s a limit switch limit?

A: “Limit switch failure – that’s a safety thing in your furnace. It’s supposed to shut the furnace down if it gets too hot, to prevent overheating and fires. If the limit switch fails, it might not shut down when it overheats, which is a fire hazard. We need to make sure those safety switches are working!”

Q23: Rollout switch… what’s that different safety switch for?

A: “Rollout switch tripped – that’s definitely a safety shutoff. It trips if the flames from the burner start rolling out of where they’re supposed to be, which is a really dangerous situation – could be a fire hazard, or carbon monoxide issue. If the rollout switch trips, the furnace shuts down hard. We need to find out why it tripped, and fix that before we reset it.”

Q24: Control board failure… sounds complicated, is that a big fix?

A: “Control board failure… yeah, that’s a pretty central issue. The control board is like the computer brain of your furnace. It controls all the different parts. If it malfunctions, you can get all sorts of heating problems, or it might just stop working entirely. Control board replacements can be a bit more involved.”

Q25: Relays… are relays even used in heaters too?

A: “Oh yeah, relay failure is a common electrical issue in furnaces. Relays are like little electrical switches that control different components. If a relay fails, it might stop a fan from turning on, or the igniter from working, or all sorts of things. Relays are pretty common failure points.”

Q26: Wiring corrosion – same wire problems as AC?

A: “Wiring corrosion is just as bad for heating systems. Rust and corrosion on the wires can cause all sorts of electrical problems – resistance, shorts, bad connections – and mess up the heating process.”

Q27: Loose wiring connections – still something to worry about in the winter?

A: “Wiring loose connections are just as annoying and problematic in heating season. The vibrations and temperature changes can still loosen wires over time, causing intermittent heat or no heat at all.”

Q28: Transformer failure – what’s a transformer even do in a heater?

A: “Transformer failure. Your furnace uses different voltages for different parts. The transformer steps down the high voltage from your house wiring to a lower voltage for the control circuits – the thermostat, the control board, safety switches. If the transformer fails, those low-voltage circuits lose power, and things stop working.”

Q29: Air filter – still gotta change that for heating, right?

A: “Absolutely! Air filter dirty is a problem year-round, for both heating and cooling. In heating season, a clogged filter still restricts airflow, makes your furnace work harder and less efficiently. And yeah, it can even cause overheating problems in some furnaces.”

Q30: Duct leaks – lose heat instead of cool air now?

A: “Duct leaks are just as wasteful for heating. Leaky ducts mean heated air escaping into unheated spaces like your attic or crawlspace instead of warming your rooms. Wasted energy, higher heating bills, drafty rooms.”

Q31: Duct blockage – could my ducts be blocked in the winter too?

A: “Duct blockage is a problem in winter and summer. Anything blocking airflow in the ducts – debris, collapsed insulation, etc. – it’s gonna restrict heat getting to certain rooms, just like it restricts cool air in the summer.”

Q32: Zone valve failure? What are “zones” in heating?

A: “Zone valve failure is for homes with zoned heating systems. Zones let you heat different parts of the house to different temperatures. Zone valves control the flow of hot water or air to each zone. If a valve fails, a zone might not get heat, or might stay hot all the time.”

Q33: Circulator pump failure? What does that pump circulate?

A: “Circulator pump failure is for hot water boilers. The circulator pump is what pumps the hot water from the boiler through your pipes and radiators or baseboards. If it fails, the hot water stops circulating, and you’re gonna lose heat throughout the house or in certain zones.”

Q34: Capacitor again? For circulator pumps too?

A: “Yep, circulator pump capacitor failure is a thing, just like for fans and blower motors. Capacitors help start and run the circulator pump motor. Failing capacitors are a common reason for circulator pump problems.”

Q35: Boiler low water level? Is that dangerous for a boiler?

A: “Boiler low water level is definitely a problem, and yes, it can be dangerous. Boilers need enough water to operate safely and transfer heat properly. Low water can cause overheating, damage to the boiler, and in extreme cases, even a boiler explosion. Low boiler water is serious, get it checked right away!“

Q36: Boiler pressure relief valve leak? What’s that valve for?

A: “Boiler pressure relief valve leak is a safety sign. That valve is designed to open and release pressure if the pressure inside the boiler gets too high – it’s a safety valve. If it’s leaking, it could mean the pressure is too high, or maybe the valve itself is just faulty. We need to figure out why it’s leaking.”

Q37: Boiler expansion tank failure? What’s that tank do?

A: “Boiler expansion tank failure can lead to pressure problems in your boiler system. When water heats up, it expands. The expansion tank is there to give that water somewhere to expand into, so the pressure doesn’t get too high. If the tank fails, it can mess with the pressure and cause issues, maybe even that relief valve leaking.”

Q38: Boiler scale buildup? What’s scale? Is that like rust?

A: “Boiler scale buildup is different from rust. Scale is mineral deposits that build up inside the boiler over time, especially if you have hard water. It’s like limescale in a kettle. That scale acts like insulation, reduces how efficiently heat transfers from the burner to the water, and can cause overheating.”

Q39: Boiler corrosion – like rust inside the boiler itself?

A: “Boiler corrosion is rust and decay inside the boiler tank itself. Moisture and oxygen can cause the steel of the boiler to rust. Over time, that corrosion can weaken the boiler and lead to leaks, and eventually, boiler failure.”

Q40: Electric heating element burnout? Is that only for electric heaters? Like baseboard heaters?

A: “Electric heating element burnout – yeah, that’s for electric furnaces, electric boilers, and electric baseboard heaters. Those heating elements are basically like big toaster coils – they get hot and make heat. If one burns out, you’ll lose some of your heating capacity. In an electric furnace with multiple elements, you might just notice less heat output.”

Q41: Electric heater wiring fault? Just electrical problems then?

A: “Electric heater wiring fault is definitely an electrical issue in electric heaters. Wiring problems – loose connections, frayed wires, shorts – can cause electric heaters to stop working, trip breakers, and even be a fire hazard. Electrical safety is key with electric heaters.”

Q42: Electric heater thermostat failure? Is that a simpler thermostat than for a whole furnace?

A: “Electric heater thermostat failure – yeah, baseboard heaters and some electric space heaters have their own little thermostats built right in. If that thermostat goes bad, that specific heater might not turn on or off right, even if the rest of your heating system is fine.”

Q43: Heat pump compressor failure – but in heating mode? Does the compressor work differently for heat and cool?

A: “Heat pump compressor failure (heating mode) – yeah, the compressor is the heart of the heat pump in both heating and cooling. It can fail when you’re trying to heat just as easily as when you’re cooling. A compressor failure in heating mode means no heat.”

Q44: Heat pump reversing valve failure – still important when it’s cold, for heating?

A: “Heat pump reversing valve failure is extra noticeable when you’re trying to heat with a heat pump. That reversing valve is what flips the refrigerant flow to switch between heating and cooling. If it fails, you might get stuck in cooling mode, even when you want heat, or it might just not heat at all.”

Q45: Heat pump defrost malfunction? What’s defrost even for in the winter?

A: “Heat pump defrost malfunction is a heating-specific issue for heat pumps in cold climates. When it’s cold and humid, frost can build up on the outdoor coil when you’re heating. That frost acts like insulation and blocks heat from being pulled in. Defrost mode is a cycle that melts that frost off. If the defrost cycle isn’t working right, you get iced up and lose heating performance.”

Q46: Heat pump outdoor fan motor failure – but it’s cold outside, why do I still need a fan?

A: “Heat pump outdoor fan motor failure still matters for heating, even in winter. Even in cold weather, the outdoor fan is still needed to draw air across that outdoor coil to extract heat from the outside air and bring it inside. No fan, less heat pulled in, less heating.”

Q47: Heat pump refrigerant leak – still refrigerant problems in the winter, for heating?

A: “Heat pump refrigerant leak (heating mode) – yeah, refrigerant problems affect both heating and cooling in a heat pump. Just like with AC, a refrigerant leak means less refrigerant to move heat, so you get less heat in the winter.”

Q48: Heat pump low refrigerant charge – same cause as AC, but for heating problems now?

A: “Heat pump low refrigerant charge (heating mode) – same idea as with AC – a slow leak or maybe undercharged from the start. And just like with AC, low refrigerant charge means weaker performance. In winter, that means weaker heating.”

Q49: Age of system components – just getting old, like the AC too?

A: “Age of system components – yup, heating systems age out just like ACs. Parts wear out over time from repeated heating cycles, especially with years of winters. Eventually, older systems just start breaking down more often and become less efficient.”

Q50: Lack of maintenance – still important for heating too? I thought maintenance was mostly for AC in the summer.

A: “Lack of maintenance is just as important for heating as for cooling, maybe even more so because safety is a bigger factor with furnaces and boilers. Regular checkups – burner cleaning, vent inspections, safety checks – they help prevent problems, keep things running efficiently through the heating season, and can catch safety issues like heat exchanger cracks or venting problems early. Don’t skip your heating tune-ups!”